steering wheel adjustment BMW 3 SERIES 1985 E30 Workshop Manual

1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his or her vehicle with the
goals of maximum performance, economy,
safety and reliability in mind. Included is a
master maintenance schedule, followed by
procedures dealing specifically with each item
on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of various components. Servicing the vehicle,
in accordance with the mileage/time
maintenance schedule and the step-by-step
procedures, will result in a planned
maintenance programme that should produce
a long and reliable service life. Keep in mind
that it is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining
some items but not others at specified
intervals, will not produce the same results.
2 Routine maintenance
As you service the vehicle, you will discover
that many of the procedures can - and should
- be grouped together, because of the nature
of the particular procedure you’re performing,
or because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for chassis lubrication, you should inspect the
exhaust, suspension, steering and fuelsystems while you’re under the vehicle. When
the wheels are removed for other work, it
makes good sense to check the brakes, since
the wheels are already removed. Finally, let’s
suppose you have to borrow a torque wrench.
Even if you only need it to tighten the spark
plugs, you might as well check the torque of
as many critical nuts and bolts as time allows.
The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
procedures you’re planning to do, then gather
up all the parts and tools needed. If it looks
like you might run into problems during a
particular job, seek advice from a mechanic or
an experienced do-it-yourselfer.
3 Engine “tune-up”-
general information
The term “tune-up” is used in this manual to
represent a combination of individual
operations rather than one specific procedure.
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
More likely than not, however, there will be
times when the engine is running poorly due
to a lack of regular maintenance. This is even
more likely if a used vehicle, which has not
received regular and frequent maintenance
checks, is purchased. In such cases, an
engine tune-up will be needed outside of the
regular maintenance intervals. The first step in any tune-up or diagnostic
procedure to help correct a poor-running
engine is a cylinder compression check. A
compression check (see Chapter 2B) will help
determine the condition of internal engine
components, and should be used as a guide
for tune-up and repair procedures. If, for
instance, a compression check indicates
serious internal engine wear, a conventional
tune-up will not improve the performance of
the engine, and would be a waste of time and
money. Because of its importance, the
compression check should be done by
someone with the right equipment, and the
knowledge to use it properly.
The following procedures are those most
often needed to bring a generally poor-
running engine back into a proper state of
tune.
Minor tune-up
Check all engine-related fluids (Section 4)
Check all underbonnet hoses (Section 10)
Check and adjust the drivebelts (Sec-
tion 11)
Clean, inspect and test the battery (Sec-
tion 13)
Renew the spark plugs (Section 14)
Inspect the spark plug HT leads, distributor
cap and rotor (Section 15)
Check the air filter (Section 20)
Check the cooling system (Section 22)
Major tune-up
All items listed under minor tune-up, plus . . .
Check the ignition system (see Chapter 5)
Check the charging system (see Chapter 5)
Check the fuel system (see Chapter 4)
Renew the spark plug HT leads, distributor
cap and rotor (Section 15)
1•7
1
Routine Maintenance
Weekly checks
4 Fluid level checks
1
Note:The following are fluid level checks to
be done on a 250-mile or weekly basis.
Additional fluid level checks can be found in
specific maintenance procedures which
follow. Regardless of intervals, be alert to fluid
leaks under the vehicle, which would indicate
a fault to be corrected immediately.
1Fluids are an essential part of the
lubrication, cooling, brake and windscreen
washer systems. Because the fluids gradually
become depleted and/or contaminated during
normal operation of the vehicle, they must be
periodically replenished. See “Lubricants and
fluids”at the beginning of this Chapter before
adding fluid to any of the following
components. Note:The vehicle must be on
level ground when any fluid levels are
checked.
Engine oil
2Engine oil is checked with a dipstick, which
is located on the side of the engine (refer to
the underbonnet illustrations in this Chapter
for dipstick location). The dipstick extends
through a metal tube down into the sump.
3The engine oil should be checked before
the vehicle has been driven, or at least
15 minutes after the engine has been shut off.
4Pull the dipstick out of the tube, and wipe
all of the oil away from the end with a clean
rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick all
the way back into the tube, and pull it out
again. Note the oil at the end of the dipstick.
At its highest point, the oil should be betweenthe two notches or marks (see illustration).
5It takes one litre of oil to raise the level from
the lower mark to the upper mark on the
dipstick. Do not allow the level to drop below
the lower mark, or oil starvation may cause
4.4 The oil level should be kept between
the two marks, preferably at or near the
upper one - if it isn’t, add enough oil to
bring the level to the upper mark
If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper part of
the engine, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick.

the stop-light switch (see Section 13). Note:
On right-hand-drive models, the brake pedal
in on the right-hand side of the vehicle, and is
connected to the left-hand side by a cross-
shaft. The adjustment is carried out on the
pushrod at the left-hand side, but the
dimension is measured at the pedal on the
right-hand side.
14On 5-Series models, adjust the brake
pedal height and the stop-light switch (see
Section 13).
15Refit the master cylinder (see Section 7)
and attach the vacuum hose.
16Carefully test the operation of the brakes
before returning the vehicle to normal use
9 Hydraulic brake servo-
description, removal and
refitting
3
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Description
1On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models, a
hydraulic brake servo system is fitted. The
servo unit, located between the brake pedal
(left-hand-drive) or cross-shaft lever (right-
hand-drive) and the master cylinder, is
operated by hydraulic pressure generated by
the power steering pump. When the engine is
running, the power steering pump supplies
hydraulic pressure to a power flow regulator/
accumulator. The regulator/accumulator
stores and regulates the pressure to the
hydraulic brake servo. When you press the
brake pedal, the pressure in the servo helps
actuate the master cylinder, reducing pedal
effort.
2The hydraulic brake servo cannot be
overhauled; if it fails, a new one must be fitted.
Testing the system requires special tools, so
even fault diagnosis is beyond the scope of
the home mechanic. If the system fails, take it
to a dealer service department or other
qualified garage for repairs.
Removal and refitting
3With the engine off, discharge the hydraulic
accumulator by depressing the brake pedal
20 times or more.
4Remove the master cylinder (see Section 7).
5Clean the area around the return and
supply line fittings, then disconnect them.
Plug the lines, to prevent dirt from entering the
system, and to prevent further fluid loss.
Caution: Even a particle of dirt
can damage the servo, so be
extremely careful to prevent dirt
from entering the system while
the lines are disconnected.
6Working from inside the passenger
compartment, remove the lower left trim
panels above the brake pedal (left-hand-drive
models) or glovebox and trim (right-hand-drive models). On left-hand-drive models, also
disconnect the pedal return spring.
7Prise off the retaining clip, and disconnect
the pushrod from the brake pedal (see
illustration 8.9) or cross-shaft lever.
8Remove the four mounting nuts and
remove the brake servo (see illus-
tration 8.10).
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the hydraulic lines to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Note:Don’t try to
tighten these fittings without a torque wrench.
If they’re loose, they can leak, which can affect
system operation; if they’re tight, they can be
damaged, and they’ll also leak. You’ll need a
crowfoot-type split ring (“brake”) attachment
for your torque wrench to tighten the fittings
properly.
10When you’re done, bleed the brake
hydraulic system (Section 16) and adjust the
brake pedal travel and the stop-light switch
(see Section 13).
10 Handbrake cable(s)- renewal
2
1Peel back the boot at the base of the
handbrake lever, and remove the handbrake
cable adjusting nut (see illustration)which
also secures the cable to the handbrake lever.There are two cables - one for each rear wheel
- and a nut for each cable. On some models, it
may be necessary to remove the centre
console completely for access.
2Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
3Remove the rear brake drum (see Section 6)
or rear brake disc (see Section 5).
4On rear drum models, unhook the
handbrake cable from the lever on the rear
brake shoe (see Section 6). On rear disc
models, remove the handbrake shoes and the
actuator (see Section 12) and unhook the
handbrake cable from the actuator (see
illustrations).
5On rear drum models, pull the cable and
cable conduit (tube) out of the back of the
brake backplate, then detach the cable
conduit from the cable clips on the back of
the trailing arm (it’s easier to pull out the old
cable, and fit the new cable, with the conduit
straight instead of curved). On rear disc
models, it’s unnecessary to detach the cable
conduit from the brake backplate, but it’s a
good idea to detach the conduit from the clips
and guides securing it to the trailing arm, to
take some of the bend out of the conduit.
6Working from the wheel end of the cable
conduit, pull the cable out of the conduit (see
illustration).
7Lubricate the new cable with multi-purpose
grease, then insert it into the cable conduit
Braking system 9•11
10.1 Peel back the handbrake lever boot
and remove the relevant handbrake cable
adjusting nut (both arrowed)
10.6 Pull the cable out of its conduit;
before you refit the new cable, be sure to
lubricate it with multi-purpose grease10.4b . . . then remove the pin securing the
cable to the inner cam, and remove the
inner cam
10.4a To detach the handbrake cable from
the handbrake actuator on models with rear
disc brakes, pull on the outer cam and
disconnect it from the inner cam . . .
9

syringe or hand pump, empty the power
steering fluid reservoir.
4On power steering models, remove the
banjo bolts and disconnect the power
steering pressure and return lines from the
steering gear. Place a container under the
lines to catch spilled fluid. Plug the lines to
prevent excessive fluid loss and
contamination. Discard the sealing washers
(new ones should be used when
reassembling).
5Disconnect the track rod ends from the
steering arms (see Section 17).
6Remove the nuts and bolts from the
steering gear mounting brackets (see
illustration). Discard the old nuts.
7Withdraw the assembly from beneath the
vehicle. Take care not to damage the steering
gear boots.
Refitting
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure the marks you made on the lower
universal joint and the pinion shaft are aligned
before you tighten the clamping bolts for the
upper and lower universal joints. Use new
self-locking nuts on the steering rackmounting bolts, and new sealing washers on
the hydraulic line fittings. Tighten the
mounting bolts, the track rod end nuts and the
universal joint shaft clamping bolts to the
torque values listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
9Lower the vehicle to the ground.
10On power steering models, fill the
reservoir with the recommended fluid (see
Chapter 1) and bleed the power steering
system (see Section 23).
11It’s a good idea to have the front wheel
alignment checked by a dealer service
department or qualified garage.
20 Steering linkage (5-Series)-
inspection, removal and
refitting
4
Inspection
1Raise the vehicle and place it securely on
axle stands.
2Firmly grasp each front tyre at the top and
bottom, then at the front and rear, and check
for play in the steering linkage by rocking the
tyre back and forth. There should be little or
no play in any of the linkage balljoints. Inspect
the Pitman arm, the idler arm, the centre track
rod, the inner track rods, the track rod ends
and the steering arms for any obvious
damage. Try forcing the linkage parts in
opposite directions from one another. There
should be no play between any of them. If any
of the parts are bent or damaged in any way,
or if any of the balljoints are worn, renew the
parts concerned.
Removal
3Before dismantling the steering linkage,
obtain a suitable balljoint separator. A two-jaw
puller or a wedge-type tool will work (although
the wedge-type tends to tear the balljoint
boots). Sometimes, you can also jar a balljoint
taper pin free from its eye by striking opposite
sides of the eye simultaneously with two large
hammers, but the space available to do this is
limited, and the balljoint stud sometimessticks to the eye because of rust and dirt.
There is also a risk of damaging the
component being struck.
4To remove the outer track rods, disconnect
the track rod ends from the steering arms (see
Section 17). Remove the nut that attaches the
balljoint on the inner end of each outer track
rod to the centre track rod (see illustration).
Using a balljoint separator, disconnect the
outer track rods from the centre track rod. If
you’re renewing the balljoint at either end of
the outer track rods, paint or scribe alignment
marks on the threads to mark their respective
positions as a guide to adjustment during
reassembly (see illustration 17.3).
5To remove the centre track rod, remove the
nuts that attach the centre track rod balljoints
to the Pitman arm and the idler arm, and use a
balljoint separator to disconnect the balljoints
from the two arms.
6To remove the Pitman arm, you’ll have to
remove the steering box first (see Section 21).
Look for match marks between the sector
shaft and arm. If there aren’t any, scribe a
mark across the bottom face of both parts.
Remove the Pitman arm pinch-bolt and nut,
then remove the arm with a puller.
7To unbolt the idler arm, first remove the
small cover bolted to the top of the subframe
crossmember. Put a spanner on the bolt, and
remove the nut recessed into the underside of
the subframe crossmember (see illustration).
Check the idler arm rubber bush for wear. If
it’s damaged or worn, renew it.
8Check each balljoint for excessive play or
stiffness, and for split or deteriorated rubber
dust boots. Renew all worn or damaged
balljoints. The inner and outer track rod ends
on the outer track rods can be renewed
individually; if either balljoint on the centre
track rod is damaged or worn, you must
renew the centre track rod.
Refitting
9Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, but observe the following points:
a) Realign the match marks on the Pitman
arm and the steering box sector shaft
when reassembling them.
b) If you’re fitting new inner or outer track
rod ends on the outer track rods, position
them so that the match marks made
during dismantling are aligned, and make
sure they are equally spaced on each
side.
c) Position the track rod end balljoint studs
on the outer track rods at an angle of 90°
to each other.
d) Make sure the left and right outer track
rods are equal in length when they are
fitted.
e) Tighten all retaining bolts to the torque
values listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
f) When reassembly of the linkage is
complete, have the front wheel alignment
checked, and if necessary, adjusted.
10•14 Suspension and steering systems
20.7 To unbolt the idler arm from the
subframe crossmember, remove this nut
(arrowed)
20.4 To remove an outer track rod,
remove this nut (arrowed) from the end of
the centre track rod, and use a balljoint
separator to separate the balljoint stud
from the centre track rod (if you’re
renewing the inner track rod end, mark the
threads with paint before loosening the
clamp bolt and nut)
19.6 Rack-and-pinion steering gear
mounting bolts (arrowed) - 3-Series
models - (self-locking nuts not visible in
this photo)

26 Wheel alignment-
general information
4
Wheel alignment refers to the adjustments
made to the wheels so they are in proper
angular relationship to the suspension and the
road. Wheels that are out of proper alignment
not only affect vehicle control, but also
increase tyre wear. The front end angles
normally measured are camber, castor and
toe-in (see illustration). Front wheel toe-in is
adjustable on all models; castor is not
adjustable. Camber is only adjustable by
replacing the strut upper mount with a special
eccentric version. Toe-in is adjustable on the
rear wheels, but only by replacing the trailing
arm outer bushings with special eccentric
bushings.
Setting the proper wheel alignment is a very
exacting process, one in which complicated
and expensive equipment is necessary to
perform the job properly. Because of this, you
should have a technician with the proper
equipment perform these tasks. We will,
however, use this space to give you a basic
idea of what is involved with wheel alignment
so you can better understand the process.
Toe-inis the “turning in” of the wheels. The
purpose of a toe specification is to ensureparallel rolling of the wheels. In a vehicle with
zero toe-in, the distance between the front
edges of the wheels will be the same as the
distance between the rear edges of the
wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is
normally very small. On the front end, toe-in is
controlled by the track rod end position on the
track rod. On the rear end, toe-in can only be
adjusted by fitting special eccentric bushings
in the trailing arm outer mounting. Incorrect
toe-in will cause the tyres to wear improperly
by making them scrub against the road
surface.
Camberis the “tilting” of the wheels from
vertical, when viewed from one end of the
vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top, the
camber is said to be positive (+). When the
wheels tilt in at the top the camber is negative (-
). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from
vertical, and this measurement is called the
camber angle. This angle affects the amount of
tyre tread which contacts the road, and
compensates for changes in the suspension
geometry when the vehicle is cornering or
travelling over an undulating surface.
Castoris the “tilting” of the front steering
axis from the vertical. A tilt toward the rear at
the top is positive castor; a tilt toward the
front is negative castor. Castor is not
adjustable on the vehicles covered by this
manual.
Suspension and steering systems 10•17
10
26.1 Wheel alignment details
1 A minus B = C (degrees camber)
2 E minus F = toe-in
(expressed in inches or mm)
3 G = toe-in (expressed in degrees)

11
1 General information
These models feature an all-steel welded
construction, where the floorpan and body
components are welded together and
attached to separate front and rear subframe
assemblies. Certain components are
particularly vulnerable to accident damage,
and can be unbolted and repaired or renewed.
Among these parts are the body mouldings,
bumpers, bonnet, doors, tailgate, and all
glass.
Only general body maintenance procedures
and body panel repair procedures within the
scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in
this Chapter.
2 Bodywork and underframe-
maintenance
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheelarches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be usedon vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust
damage, where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to be
taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-
abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid
damage to the finish. Always check that the
door and ventilator opening drain holes and
pipes are completely clear, so that water can
be drained out. Brightwork should be treated in
the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and
windows can be kept clear of the smeary film
which often appears, by the use of proprietary
glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or
other body or chromium polish on glass.
Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings
Bodywork and underframe - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Bodywork repair - major damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Bodywork repair - minor damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Boot lid/tailgate - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Door trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Exterior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Fixed glass - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hinges and locks - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Interior trim - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal, refitting and
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Steering column shrouds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
11•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty Contents

REF•1
REF
MOT Test Checks
This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.
Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.
Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester
has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.
It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,
based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).
An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.
The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:
HandbrakeMTest the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
MCheck that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.
Footbrake
MDepress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.MCheck that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
MCheck the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.
Steering wheel and column
MExamine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
MMove the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right.
MCheck that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormalmovement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or
couplings.
Windscreen and mirrors
MThe windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM

REF•23
REF
Glossary of Technical Terms
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
LocknutA nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
LockwasherA form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strutA type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
MultimeterAn electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOxOxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhmThe unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
produce a current of one amp.
OhmmeterAn instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ringA type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action.Overhead cam (ohc) engineAn engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overhead valve (ohv) engineAn engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensorA device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screwA type of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
PlastigageA thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
Propeller shaftThe long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valveA hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steeringA steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
RadiatorA liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
RefrigerantAny substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful tothe ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker armA lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
RotorIn a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electrode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
RunoutThe amount of wobble (in-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.
The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
out-of-round condition of a rotating part.
SSealantA liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lampAn older headlight design
which integrates the reflector, lens and
filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebeltA single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
ShimThin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness of the shim.
Slide hammerA special puller that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
SprocketA tooth or projection on the
periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
Starter inhibitor switchOn vehicles with an
O-ring
Serpentine drivebelt
Plastigage

REF•26Index
E
Earth check - 12•2
Electric fan - 3•4
Electric shock - 0•5
Electric windows - 12•9
Electrical equipment - REF•2
Electrical system fault finding - 12•1
Electronic control system - 4•3, 4•14
Electronic control unit (ECU) - 6•1
Engine fault finding - REF•10
Engine tune-up - 1•7
Engine electrical systems- 5•1et seq
Engine electrical systems fault finding -
REF•11
Engine management and emission control
systems- 6•1et seq
Engine oil - 1•3, 1•7, 1•11
Environmental considerations - REF•8
Evaporative emissions control (EVAP)
system - 1•26, 6•5
Evaporator - 3•10
Exhaust emission checks - REF•4
Exhaust manifold - 2A•6
Exhaust system - 1•21, 4•20, REF•3
F
Fan - 3•4, 3•5
Fault finding- REF•9et seq
Fault finding - automatic transmission -
7B•2, REF•13
Fault finding - braking system - REF•14
Fault finding - clutch - REF•12
Fault finding - cooling system - REF•12
Fault finding - electrical system - 12•1,
REF•11
Fault finding - engine - REF•10
Fault finding - fuel system - 4•21, REF•12
Fault finding - manual transmission -
REF•13
Fault finding - suspension and steering -
REF•15
Filling - 11•3
Final drive - 8•2, 8•10, 8•11
Final drive oil - 1•3, 1•19, 1•26
Fire - 0•5
Flexible coupling - 8•7
Fluid level checks - 1•7
Fluid seals - 7B•5
Flywheel - 2A•18
Fuel and exhaust systems- 1•20, 4•1et
seq,REF•4
Fuel system fault finding - REF•12
Fuel filter - 1•25
Fuel hoses - 1•14
Fuel injection system - 4•3, 4•14
Fuel injection system - fault finding - 4•21
Fuel injectors - 4•18
Fuel level sender unit - 4•5, 4•6
Fuel lines and fittings - 4•7
Fuel pressure - 4•3
Fuel pressure regulator - 4•16
Fuel pump - 4•3, 4•4, 4•5
Fuel tank - 4•7, 4•8
Fume or gas intoxication - 0•5
Fuses - 12•2
G
Gaiters - 1•22, 8•9, 10•13
Gashes in bodywork - 11•2
Gaskets - REF•8
Gear lever - 7A•1
Gearbox - SeeManual transmission
Gearbox oil - 1•3, 1•19, 1•25
General engine overhaul procedures-
2B•1et seq
Glass - 11•4, 11•8
Glossary of technical terms - REF•20
Grille - 11•4
H
Handbrake - 1•23, 9•2, 9•12, REF•1
Handbrake fault - REF•14
Handles - 11•8
Hazard warning flasher - 12•2
HC emissions - REF•4
Headlights - 12•3, 12•5, 12•6
Heated rear window - 12•8
Heater - 3•2, 3•7, 3•8
Hinges - 11•4
HT leads - 1•18
Hubs - 10•8, 10•11, REF•3
Hydraulic servo - 9•11
Hydraulic tappets - 2B•11
Hydrofluoric acid - 0•5
I
Idle air stabiliser valve - 4•18
Idle speed adjustment - 1•15
Ignition coil - 5•5
Ignition control unit - 5•6, 5•7
Ignition sensors - 5•8
Ignition switch - 12•3
Ignition system - 5•3
Ignition timing - 5•4
Ignition timing sensors - 6•4
Impulse generator - 5•6, 5•7
In-car engine repair procedures- 2A•1et
seq
Indicators - 12•2, 12•3
Information sensors - 6•2
Injectors - 4•18
Input shaft - 7A•2
Instrument cluster - 12•4
Instrument panel language display - 0•7
Intake manifold - 2A•4
Intermediate shaft - 2A•12, 2B•14, 2B•19
Introduction to the BMW 3- and 5-Series -
0•4
J
Jacking - 0•8
Joint mating faces - REF•8
Jump starting - 0•9
K
Kickdown cable - 7B•3
L
L-Jetronic fuel injection system - 4•14,
4•19
Language display - 0•7
Latch - 11•8
Leaks - 0•10, 7B•3, REF•12, REF•13
Locknuts, locktabs and washers - REF•8
Locks - 11•4, 11•8
Lubricants - REF•18
M
Main bearings - 2B•17, 2B•19
Manifolds - 2A•4, 2A•6
Manual transmission- 7A•1et seq
Manual transmission fault finding - REF•13
Manual transmission oil - 1•3, 1•19, 1•25
Master cylinder - 8•3, 9•9
Mechanical fan - 3•4, 3•5
Mirrors - 11•8, REF•1
Misfire - REF•11
Mixture - REF•4
MOT test checks- REF•1 et seq
Motronic engine management system -
6•1
Motronic fuel injection system - 4•14, 4•19
Mountings - 2A•19, 7A•3
O
Oil - differential - 1•19, 1•26
Oil - engine - 1•3, 1•7, 1•11
Oil - final drive - 1•3
Oil - manual transmission - 1•3, 1•19, 1•25
Oil filter - 1•11, 1•12
Oil pump - 2A•16
Oil seals - 2A•12, 2A•13, 2A•19, 2B•20,
7A•2, 7B•5, 8•10, 8•12, REF•8
Open-circuit - 12•2
Output shaft - 7A•2, 7B•5
Overcooling - REF•12
Overheating - REF•12
Oxygen sensor - 6•2
P
Pads - 9•2, 9•3
Pedals - 8•3, 9•13
Pinion oil - 8•12
Pinking - REF•11
Piston rings - 2B•18
Pistons - 2B•12, 2B•16, 2B•21
Plastic components - 11•3
Poisonous or irritant substances - 0•5
Position sensors - 5•8
Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV)
system - 6•4
Power steering - 1•14, 10•15, 10•16
Power steering fluid - 1•12
Propeller shaft - 8•2, 8•6, 8•8
Pulse sensor - 5•8
Purge valve - 6•5